I vini di Sorrentino raccontano il Vesuvio al Markus di Maurizio De Riggi

Il vulcano nel bicchiere

Il Vesuvio ha una storia vitivinicola antica ed imponente, eppure ancora oggi questo territorio fa fatica ad affermarsi. O meglio, le difficoltà le ha in casa propria, mentre oltre i confini regionali le aziende che lavorano con competenza e rispetto dell’identità territoriale hanno un forte appeal. Molti nutrono curiosità verso i vini prodotti sui vulcani in quanto c’è consapevolezza che abbiano una marcia in più per il fatto che sono molto espressivi.

Tutto questo lo racconta Benny Sorrentino, giovane enologa dell’azienda di famiglia alla quarta generazione, ad uno degli appuntamenti di Markus Wine Experience, voluti dallo chef e patron Maurizio De Riggi. I vigneti sono a Boscotrecase, in via Fruscio, così chiamata storicamente dai contadini che abitano queste contrade da sempre legate alla vite e all’agricoltura.

VesuvioVisitare l’azienda è una esperienza molto coinvolgente, qui la bellezza occupa ogni spazio, i filari in ripida pendenza guardano il golfo di Napoli, da monte di Procida fino a Punta Campanella sulla costa di Sorrento. In linea d’aria siamo sopra Pompei e proprio di fronte l’isola di Capri che fa bella mostra di sé. Alle spalle il cono del Vesuvio domina il paesaggio con la sua imponenza. I colori sono accesi dalla luce che qui non trova ostacoli, si alternano dal grigio del suolo ricoperto di lapilli alle infinite tonalità di verde brillante delle vigne, degli olivi e del bosco del Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio che protegge il podere nel suo abbraccio antico e rassicurante.

Alla famiglia Sorrentino si deve la custodia di questo patrimonio di biodiversità di notevole importanza. Ritroviamo molti alberi da frutta tipici, albicocchi, ciliegi, castagni, noci, olivi, pomodorini del piennolo e altri ortaggi sotto le pergole. Con passione e tanto lavoro hanno portato avanti i vitigni storici del territorio: catalanesca, caprettone e piedirosso. Sono loro i protagonisti e spesso abitano ancora in vecchi tendoni vesuviani, testimoni della storia vitivinicola del territorio così unico e straordinario. E proprio questi tre vitigni sono stati al centro della degustazione al Markus, scelti da Benny per raccontare in maniera profonda e sincera il suo Vesuvio.

Il primo nei bicchieri del lungo tavolo conviviale nella sala degustazione è Catalò 2016, da uva catalanesca in purezza, il bianco che si ritrova solo in questo areale e verso il quale la gente del luogo nutre un forte legame affettivo. Qui si dice che “la catalanesca è l’uva nostra”. I lunghi studi approfonditi sul vitigno condotti proprio da Benny hanno rivalutato moltissimo questo vino bianco che torna a vivere un momento felice sul mercato. Nel bicchiere colpisce la sua luminosità che ne conferma l’energia e la voglia di raccontarsi. Al naso ricorda i fiori di campo, la pesca gialla, la salvia, all’assaggio è ricco, e colpisce la nota sapida. L’altro bianco vesuviano è il caprettone, spesso confuso con la coda di volpe, ma sono due varietà diverse. Natì 2012 ne è una bellissima interpretazione e anche in questo caso lo studio e poi la tecnologia in cantina consentono di ottenere un risultato così alto. Si è ormai capito che il vitigno vuole tempo per esprimersi ed in questo millesimo 2012 ha l’opportunità di conquistare i degustatori. La vigna dalla quale proviene è a 400 metri di altitudine e le rese sono basse, solo 50 – 60 quintali per ettaro. Più si sale di altitudine sul vulcano, tanto meno terreno le piante trovano a disposizione, quindi la vite fa fatica a svilupparsi e riduce la sua produttività. Per tanto quei pochi grappoli favoriscono la concentrazione degli elementi arrivati dal suolo, regalando qualità ed espressione territoriale al vino. Natì 2012 trasmette tutti questi particolari sia al naso che al sorso, vuole tempo nel bicchiere per raccontarsi, è fiore di acacia, pesca, zafferano, buccia di mandarino, elegante e sinuoso, avvolgente in bocca, pieno, e saporito. Pierirosso 7 Moggi 2016, prodotto solo in acciaio per esaltare l’immediatezza e il carattere sottile proprio di questa uva. Spicca la nota fruttata di ciliegia, la punta di grafite e punge appena il pepe nero. Il sorso è agile, veloce con tannini delicati. Saliamo ulteriormente di altitudine con il Lacryma Christi Rosso Vigna lapillo 2014, siamo a 500 metri sul livello del mare, una vera rarità per chi fa vitivinicoltura da queste parti. Risalendo la china del vulcano le rocce di lava sono sempre più presenti, impedendo all’agricoltura di prendere spazio. Il piedirosso è l’uva nera del territorio, qui trova il suo regno, mentre in gran parte della Campania il ruolo dominante è condotto dall’aglianico. Piacevolissimo ed intenso nei profumi di frutti scuri di bosco, mora e mirtillo, poi carrubi, la spezia di pepe nero è delicata, si affina nel tocco di pietra nera bagnata. Il sorso è ricco, leggermente tannico, suVesuvioccoso e scattante sulla spinta della freschezza. Il Piedirosso Frupa 2012 ha origine dal cru più altro, 600 metri s.l.m., un vero privilegio assaggiarlo. Ha un corpo importante, ma nello stesso tempo vibra di energia. È profondo e coinvolgente in tutte le sue sfumature, ampio ed elegante nei profumi, si fa apprezzare in bocca per la vivacità, la freschezza ben in armonia con gli altri elementi e si allunga sui toni sapidi.

Nelle Markus Wine Experience lo chef De Riggi abbina ad ogni vino un suo piatto, la sua cucina pesca nella cultura partenopea e in quella contadina dove ricerca i prodotti tra piccoli agricoltori e artigiani. La visione e l’impostazione dei piatti e del tutto attuale, molto giovane ed intrigante. Seguire un percorso degustazione diverte la mente ed il palato.

È possibile anche prenotare il tavolo dello chef, all’entrata della cucina a vista si degustano i piatti da lui scelti insieme ai vini in abbinamento, mentre Maurizio lavora ai fornelli, dialoga e discorre con il suo ospite.

Il ristorante Markus è nel centro storico di San Paolo Bel Sito.

Marina Alaimo

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